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If you have any interest in purchasing a kit version of this machine please click the above button and complete the form so that I can gauge the level of interest. This instructable will show you how to construct a CNC Router that will allow you to cut 3-D shapes out of wood, plastic and aluminum using a standard hand held router.

Recently I have noticed that more and more projects on instructables have involved the use of some sort of CNC machine, be it a laser cutter, 3d printer, milling machine, etc.

I wanted to join this revolution of digital fabrication and start making my projects even better using these tools. So about a year ago I set out to find a way to make this possible and came to conclusion that a simple 3 axis CNC router would be the best option to get things going. I started doing some research and decided to design and build my own machine.

This instructable steps though all the parts needed to build the machine I have designed and the reasoning behind why I built the machine the way I did. It also includes an explanation of CNC technology and would be a great reference for anyone looking to learn some metal fabrication skills. My hope is that someone might use these plans to build this router for themselves or at least draw some inspiration from my design. I have created 2d drawings of all the parts with complete dimensions and specs, details on how to build each part, a complete parts and tools lists with prices and links, a basic wiring diagram and an explanation of the design.

I have designed this router to be very versatile and hope to also use this same machine as a 3-D printer and a hot wire foam cutter in the future. This machine is constructed from rectangular steel tubing and aluminum plate and was fabricated using a small horizontal band saw, bench top drill press and flux core MIG welder.

There is no need for high precision and expensive tools to build this machine. Using the techniques I have listed in this instructable for marking, centering, drilling and tapping anyone with the desire to build something well, will be able to complete this project. There are no angles to cut or parts that seem impossible to get right, just straight cuts and holes to drill.

The machine bolts together and can be adjusted for square and levelness on each axis. CNC stands for C omputer N umerical C ontrol, which extends to many different applications but in most cases is used to describe a machine that is controlled by a computer to remove small amounts of material from a larger piece of material.

Most of these machines use a spinning bit with sharp edges to scrape away small slices of material in a very controlled fashion until the desired final shape of the material is left. Through the use of computers very precise shapes can be cut from almost any material. There are many different types of CNC machines but they are most distinguishable by the type and size of material they are designed to cut. This instructable will show you how to build a CNC router.

If you are learning about CNC and have considered building your own machine I would highly recommend taking a look at this website cncroutersource. When I first considered building CNC machine I was lucky enough to stumble across this site and it helped me make a lot of the basic design decisions early on.

Once you have read though all you can on the cncroutersource. Here you will find a vast amount of information and huge community of active users all doing the things you want to do for your CNC. There is a specific section of the forum for CNC routers and many build threads have been posted that will make you drool with jealousy.

Have a question about CNC? A simple search of this forum will most likely answer any and all of the CNC questions you have. Keep in mind though that a lot of acronyms and jargon are used on cnczone but if you have read cncroutersource you should be able to figure it out. You now know my decisions and hopefully understand my reasoning. I think I have a pretty good combination of parts that has exceeded my expectations. If you decide to build a machine based on my plans I have everything laid out in the following steps.

I have also included a D file of the entire assembly of the router. You can open and view the model as well as all the individual parts using the free software D. The stepper motor mounting plate is a clever name for the plate that mounts the stepper motor. This part has been designed to be universal for the machine and you will need to make 5 of these parts. This part is made from aluminum flat stock that is 2. This is a great starting point for this project because you have to use all the tools needed for the construction of this machine and its a fairly simple part.

First cut 5 pieces to a length of 4" Then you need to lay out the holes using dykem, a scribe and a combination square. I did not do this for this part because a friend, who converted a small mill to CNC, made a jig for me. Even if you don't know someone who can do this I would recommend making a jig first. To do this just lay out all your holes and drill them all the same size, a size that you have a transfer punch for. That will be your reference for all 5 parts and you'll just transfer punch all the hole locations for all the plates.

This will save you a lot of time and effort. Once all the holes are located with the transfer punch drill them to the sizes indicated on the drawing, following my good hole drilling guide lines. For the counter boring bit set the depth on you drill press using the stops on the machine. Do a test counter bore hole first and check the depth with an M5 low head socket head cap screw.

You need the head of the screw to be below the surface of the part. All five parts are basically the same except for the plate that mounts the z axis stepper. That plate needs two extra holes to mount it to the z axis plate, which are shown on the second drawing. As a side note, at this point you should also make the jig for the gantry mount, step This will help with many of the parts as you build. Let me start off saying that making your own standoffs is not worth your time.

These parts can be purchased for less than a dollar a piece and will be made with much better tolerances. I would recommend Mcmaster carr part A This standoff uses screws so you need to us that instead of M5, but the screws are cheap because they are more common. I made these standoffs but will most likely replace them soon with the Mcmaster part. I made a jig to hold the tube with a set screw which allowed me to drill the ends with the drill press and hold the part while tapping.

My results were not the best but close enough, and that's why I recommend just buying these parts. The x-axis frame is made from 1x2x0. The side rails are taped to allow for the mounting of the 20mm linear rails. The rails I got had the mounting holes drilled but it looked like someone with a hand drill just went to town drilling these holes. They were not drilled with much precision so you will need to transfer punch all the locations for each rail.

Use the drawing as a reference but mark the locations based on your actual parts. The ends match the hole pattern on the stepper motor mounting plate so just use your jig to transfer punch those locations. The frame was welded together using a right angle clamp from Northern Tool. This was my first time welding with a clamp like this and I was impressed with its accuracy and ease of use.

The cut outs on both ends were done with my band saw in the vertical position. I used a sandpaper disc on my angle grinder to get a smooth finish after cutting. I marked all the holes with the scribe and the combination square. These parts are fairly simple but involve a lot of drilling and tapping. All of the holes on the vertical tube are to allow the gantry to be mounted higher or lower on the machine. This allows the machine to to be optimized for the different materials that you may want to cut.

For example if I'm cutting primarily sheet material I can lower the gantry and space out the bearings on the z axis more which will make the machine more rigid for cutting thinner material. Make sure to drill and tap all the holes needed in each piece before welding them together. I used a jig I made for the gantry mount plate to locate and transfer punch all the tapped holes. If you've made it this far its time to treat yourself to a little CNC action. Bolt everything together as shown in the drawing.

Check out the z axis assembly, step 22, for a picture of how the drive screw is assembled. Once its together, turn the screw by hand and watch as the gantry uprights slide down the linear rails, its a beautiful thing. Enjoy this for a moment and then get back to work on the rest of the machine. Pretty much the same procedure as before, transfer punch the rail holes and mark locations for the holes on either end.

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Gilang Dwi Alridho October 04, Alfredo Elago May 26, Having the same issue in version 8. Ajilal Vijayan Publisher December 20, Ajilal Vijayan Publisher September 25, Thank you!!!! Pretty cool app! Just the App that I was looking for!

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If so please "Accept As Solution " if a reply has helped resolve the issue or answered your question, to help others in the community. I have the same issue and I did the clean install, and followed all steps from comments. Uninstalled Redistributales, cleared the reg, etc. I can't use Autocad for months now, it simply does not work on my machine! I ran Autocad on a Win 10 x64 machine. Have you considered a clean re-build of your computer's operating system?

Or perhaps, it might be worth considering an upgrade to Windows 10 to see if your issue persists. Is your computer on a network? Does your logon account have full permissions administrator role? In Autocad Subscription, Installation and Licensing. Share your knowledge, ask questions, and explore popular Download, Installation, and Licensing topics. Turn on suggestions. Auto-suggest helps you quickly narrow down your search results by suggesting possible matches as you type.

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